Expert Advice: Skincare through the ages – Teen & Twenties
Clare O’Hanlon begins her series of articles looking at how the skin changes as we age and the best way to treat it, starting with Beginners Facials.
Looking at the needs of young skin, we will discuss what bothers teenage skin and the issues that carry forth into clients' twenties.
What are the common problems faced by clients this age?
Our skin generally stays as perfect as baby's smooth skin up to about age 11. After that comes the common teenage skin problems such as spots, blackheads, increased oily skin and in some cases acne may occur. This is due to the hormone in fluctuations that differ in both males and females.
Testosterone increased sebaceous glands, which can over produce with oil and block pores, and with females the drop in estrogen causes monthly flare ups. The skin starts to change again in our twenties. If you have dodged the spotty bullet as a teenager, you may not be so lucky in your twenties as this age too can set skin off, especially the jaw line. At the same time, clients in their twenties may have dry, combination skin; it all comes down to the individual.
What are the latest products and treatments used to treat them?
When it comes to skincare in your teens, less is more. It is very common for a young teen with acne to feel their skin is dirty and to over wash it or over scrub it; this will in fact bring on more oil and the problem will get worse.
Keeping things simple but using the correct spot fighting ingredients will be the best solution. Anything with Salicylic acid will help to unblock the skin and clean the pore which is where a spot surfaces from. If some people are sensitive to this they could try Canadian Willowherb products from Juliette Armand, which is a more gentle approach but it is responsible for stopping the bacteria that causes 99% of acne cases.
How best can you market facials ideal for teens?
Facials are also a great way to treat the skin whether they need hydration, extractions, an exfoliation or a steam filled facial.
Any client should expect to be able to have a skin consultation from their local beauty salon or spa in which the therapist can recommend products or treatments to assist them with their concerns.
Advertising specific facials for specific ages will also catch the eye of their specific market. A significant number of this group are on social media especially TikTok, so it's about making funky interesting videos that will get this group engaged.
Are there any guidelines therapists should follow when treating clients of this age?
It is very important to get the clients into good habits from a young age as it sets your skin up for life. An SPF is essential for fighting premature wrinkles in your twenties and thirties. Therapists should educate a teen to not use cleansing wipes, and yes I know how convenient they are! They cause long term damage and strip the skin's barrier so it's not a good start.
Teenagers tend to pick their skin or spots a lot which causes scaring and pitting of the skin. So a reminder of that is needed.
Therapists should avoid high levels of acids and AHA as teens and twenties skins are still quite vulnerable. We are seeing a lot more skin in the twenties that have had their barrier impaired by using products that have a low pH level so if your customers want to have some fun they can purchase litmus paper and check out their existing products and to make sure they are not to acidic.
Clare O'Hanlon is Business Development Director at Boost Beauty Solutions Ltd, Irish distributor of Juliette Armand, Grande Cosmetics & Korean skincare Storyderm.
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