Skincare: Why it’s vital you review skincare regimes during winter
As the leaves fall and the weather turns chillier and wetter, it's not just our wardrobes that need a seasonal makeover; our skin routines, whether that's in the salon or at home, need to be adjusted to ensure the care we've taken over the summer months is not undone by winter environments.
“As the autumn draws in, our skin loses essential moisture and hydration, resulting in dryness, more pronounced lines and a more lack lustre skin,” explains Ruby Sidhu, Trainer at CACI International.
Stephanie Verstraten, Aesthetic Advisor in Aesthetic Dermatology for mesoestetic UK, agrees:
“Skin likes consistency, so when the weather changes this is a shock to our skin system! As autumn and winter comes, temperature and humidity lower and the weather harshens so our skin must work harder to keep in the hydration to avoid cracks, tightness and irritation in the skin. Because of the colder weather we also start to crank up our central heating and have long hot showers, but this also contributes to skin dryness, irritation and inflammation.”
“In the summer we are all quite good at taking care of our skin now because we know about SPFs and the importance of protecting the skin. However, I often find that clients struggle with their regime in the winter and they see changes they don't quite understand,” says Education Ambassador for Nimue Skin Technology, Hannah McAndrew. “This is generally because the skin loses water during the colder months due to a drop in humidity. This process is known as Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). The loss of water in the lower layers of the skin can cause it to feel dehydrated and slightly flaky.
“Usually in the winter, enzyme activity will slow down and the skin can have a duller appearance and feel congested and sensitive. The skin's natural barrier will be reduced, making conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and rosacea more likely. The good news is that it's easy to combat TWEL if you choose the right products.”
Breakouts can also be exacerbated by winter weather. “If you suffer with acne prone skin, you may notice your skin becoming more inflamed,” says Dr Sam Hills, Clinical Director at Lynton. “We also all don't get our Vitamin D, so our complexion can appear dull, slightly grey, not as plump or supple as usual, and you may also have darker under eye circles, this is because the skin needs Vitamin D for the skin cells to regenerate properly and remain healthy.”
So, what changes should we telling our clients to make during the autumn and winter months?
“If the home environment is especially dry, consider investing in a humidifier or simple bowls of water placed near radiators to add moisture to the air; simple tricks like this can be very beneficial for our skin,” suggests Matt Taylor, Lead Educator for Eve Taylor.
He adds: “Avoid cleansing with foaming washes high in surfactants and opt for creamy based cleansers which will remove dirt, debris and make-up without stripping away essential moisture and oils.”
Wendy Stirling, founder of Botanicals Ltd, agrees: “It's important to choose natural cream-based cleansing products that don't strip the skin of its natural oils and emollient moisturisers that soothe the skin and help lock-in moisture. Above all, avoid skin care products that contain synthetic ingredients and petrochemicals, as these can have a drying effect on the skin.”
There's a number of vital ingredient that the skincare you're recommending to your clients should include, ranging from ceramides and Hyaluronic acid to Shea Butter and Vitamin C.
“There are some super-natural ingredients to look out for,” advises Wendy Stirling. “My favourite is organic Shea Butter as it's one of nature's miracles for protecting our skin. It's wonderfully healing and nourishing to the skin, also incredibly versatile, and for this reason finds its way into most Botanicals products.”
“Skin become dryer because ceramide levels naturally drop at this time of year due to changes in the skin's Ph and the effects of central heating,” explains Clare Muir, Training Director iiaa Ltd. “These naturally-occurring lipids moisturise skin, so when they deplete it's very important to replenish them topically and orally via supplementation.”
“Hyaluronic acid should be an essential part of [clients'] daily regimen, as it works effectively to retain moisture, resulting in plumper skin,” says Ruby Sidhu.
Matt Taylor agrees, saying: “Applying serums rich in Hyaluronic acid will benefit the skin greatly by infusing moisture into the top layers of skin.”
“Hyaluronic acid plays a key role in hydrating parched winter skin. It works in the space between cells, almost like the mortar between bricks, to plump the skin and help it retain moisture; in fact, it can hold 1,000 times its own weight in water. Like ceramides, it can be applied topically or taken orally. For the best outcome, do both!” suggests Clare Muir.
In addition, Stephanie Verstraten makes further suggestions: “Glycolic acid [will] exfoliate the dead dull skin cells and reveal fresh skin underneath…It significantly increases hydration of the dermis. [In addition,] vitamin C [is] an antioxidant to fight against free radicals and to help brighten/add radiance to skin in the duller months. Applied topically, it has a dual antioxidant effect: it neutralises free radicals in cells and contributes to vitamin E regeneration, which is essential for protection of cells' lipid membranes.”
You also need to consider the professional treatments you're offering in the salon now that the weather has changed. Carry out a pre-treatment review of your clients' skin during their facial treatment; assess environmental damage, discuss their current at-home regime, and ask about their lifestyle which may mean their skincare needs are changing. Are they exposed to central heating all day long which will dehydrate skin and lead to dullness, lines and wrinkles? Are they outdoors mornings and evening walking their dogs, when harsh, cold wind and rain can lead to redness and skin sensitivity? By understanding exposure to environmental aggressors, you can prescribe the right products to prevent damage, rather than battling to reverse signs of damage later.
“Offer your most nourishing treatments and look to include products rich in Oatmeal, Aloe Vera, Silicones, Hyaluronic acid and lipid rich oils,” suggests Matt Taylor. “Add in elements of gentle heat to give your clients a warming experience, cocoon them in a fluffy cover or duvet, use a heated under blanket and include the use of warm steam towels during the treatment, small touches like these always add a feeling of luxury.
“We are in the ideal position to help our clients keep their skin in the best health during the winter months by offering an array of treatments, homecare and advice; using the power of social media we can get our treatment offerings across with targeted adverts, tips and advice or even competitions to win a free treatment. Look to revise your service offerings with a winter portfolio of treatments for the face, body and hands for all round body wellbeing.”
Here are a few of our favourites....
Botanicals Repair & Renew Night Balm will help feed skin with nourishment, lock-in moisture and soothe any irritations, with noticeable improvements upon waking.
Enriched with certified organic Shea Butter and infused with White and Green Tea and Rose Geranium, this organic face balm is nourishing, revitalises and soothes the complexion.
In addition, Botanicals Rosa-Renew Anti-Ageing Serum is an antioxidant-rich organic facial oil serum with rejuvenating Rosehip oil that works in harmony with the body to support skin's natural ability to regenerate new skin cells. Camellia helps neutralise free radicals, Frankincense helps reduce micro-wrinkles and Carrot provides a rich source of the skin nourishing vitamin beta carotene. Apply one to two drops underneath day and night-time moisturisers.
Botanicals' entire range is 100% natural, certified organic by the Soil Association and is suitable for vegans.
CACI Eye Revive serum features REGU-AGE, a blend of natural proteins which help to smooth the skin's texture and reduce the appearance of puffiness and dark circles.
In trials, REGU®-AGE is proven to reduce dark circles by up to 35%, puffiness by up to 31% and skin texture by up to 42%.
Brightening the skin, the serum also features Hyaluronic acid and seaweed extract, which helps to tackle skin discolouration.
Juliette Armand Hyaluronic Acid Serum is a latest generation biotechnology product (biomolecule) with strong moisturising and firming effects.
Hyaluronic acid is a structural component of the connective tissue of the skin, retaining up to 1,000 times its weight in water, which is gradually released, thus enhancing skin moisture.
HA also contributes to the structural integrity of the cutaneous extracellular tissue, forming a strong supporting net for collagen and elastin fibres and reinforcing skin texture, helping the serum to restore skin's moisture balance and vigour.
natura's Turmeric Sheet Mask encourages cell renewal and leaves skin hydrated and radiant.
Turmeric is a multi-tasking superfood with anti-ageing benefits which re-energise the skin, and act as a powerful anti-oxidant to protect the skin.
Beauty Pro's Brightening Collagen Mask with Vitamin-C features an anti-ageing formula which combats fine lines, wrinkles, sun-damage and dull skin while improving skin clarity, rebalancing uneven skin tone and diminishing pigmentation resulting in soft, supple skin with a youthful glow.
For men, Barber Pro's Skin Renewing Foil Mask with Hyaluronic Acid & Q10 offers intense hydration to fatigued, dehydrated and dry skin.
Self-warming using clients' natural body temperature, the penetration of active ingredients is accelerated, stimulating collagen production to improve skin elasticity, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Eve Taylor Hydrating Serum with Hyaluronic Acid is a light fluid gel serum which rapidly absorbs into the skin to plump and hydrate the skin.
Trans-epidermal water loss is prevented, with Sodium Hyaluronate acting as a powerful humectant attracting moisture to itself.
Suitable for all skin types, especially dehydrated or sun damaged skin during winter, the serum eases the appearance of fine lines as skin is rehydrated, and skin texture is left soft and silky.
From HOF's Retinol collection, Super Serum features 3 million IU's (International Units) of retinol in each bottle. This serum helps to build natural collagen and its surrounding support matrix for plumping and firming the skin. This reduces the look of deep-set wrinkles and minimises the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
What's more, skin turnover is enhanced, revealing smoother skin texture and a more even tone with less discolouration.
Also part of this collection, HOF Retinol Day Cream with SPF offers protection against UVA and UVB damage in winter.
SkinMate Collagen Non-Surgical Face Lift Masks are sheets of pure natural collagen, rather than impregnated masks.
Compatible with all skin types, the mask's active ingredients of native collagen, collagen amino-acids and peptides are released when liquid is added. Just one treatment provides the skin with an optimum of moisture, with hydration levels increased by up to 180%; this increase is clinically proven to last for up to 14 days.
This hydration improves the wrinkle profile, whilst skin texture and colour is improved.
Lynton's illumiFacial® uses a new combination of specialist Lynton skincare together with powerful, medical-grade IPL technology.
The illumiFacial® is designed to clinically transform the skin in four easy steps to defy ageing and harsh environmental conditions, and be offered as a targeted solution or for instant results.
Lynton's Clinical Director, Dr Sam Hills, explains:
“Using a specially formulated peel prior to IPL treatment gives enhanced light penetration and product absorption, allowing both to work synergistically to give flawless, air-brushed skin; perfect for anyone whose skin exhibits congestion, discolouration and visible signs of ageing.”
Within illumiFacial®, four of the five core topical products for this treatment can be used at home, including Stem Cell Serum, Lynton Cleanser, Light Protect SPF 50 and Light Soothe a post IPL/Laser treatment hydrating and calming serum which includes the ingredient of Manuka Honey.
Using Lynton's 3JUVE, treatments using Radio Frequency combined with 585 IPL and Fractional laser at 2940nm, offer an option to tackle fine lines and wrinkles enhance by cold weather.
Lynton call this technology ReMODEL as it stimulates the body's natural subdermal collagen production, which diminishes the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and loose skin.
“By combining these three non-invasive facial skin rejuvenation technologies in one platform and treatment parameter, 3JUVE addresses not only skin laxity and loss of firmness but also the two other key signs of ageing: discolouration and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” explains Lynton's Clinical Director, Dr Sam Hills.
The treatment is painless, with clients reporting pleasant warming and massage-type sensations, and an enjoyable facial therapy in the cold winter months.
mesoestetic Stem Cell Active Growth Factor is a regenerating and repairing face cream based on the properties of plant stem cell extract.
The cream strengthens the structure of the cutaneous tissue, improving the quality and texture of the skin.
With an anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle skin action, the cream is part of mesoestetic's Stem Cell cosmeceutical range.
mesoestetic HA Densimatrix is a concentrated treatment with Hyaluronic acid which provides skin with a moisturising, anti-ageing, replumping and filling action.
It combines Hyaluronic acid in several molecular forms to provide, stimulate and protect its presence in key skin layers, protecting it from degradation. it also promotes collagen and elastin synthesis proving firmness and elasticity to skin tissues, correcting wrinkles.
Suitable for any age or skin type, mesoestetic HA Densimatrix also blocks free radicals to prevent skin ageing.
Apply three to four drops to cleansed skin, and massage to complete absorption.
Nimue Skin Technology's Element Barrier is formulated with liquid crystal technology which traps water in the lower layers of the skin to help prevent water loss.
This lightweight face or body cream forms a barrier on the skin, protecting against environmental elements such as extreme temperatures and wind.
Apply in the morning after Nimue moisturiser and before a Nimue SPF, and reapply every two to three hours during continuous exposure to heat, extreme cold and wind.
Hydro Lip Therapy from Nimue Skin Technology conditions and hydrates the lip area during winter weather.
It features nourishing active ingredients of vitamin E Ester, Shea Butter, Allantoin, Chamomile and organic and inorganic sunscreens, which tackle the root problems and improve the skin condition. Skins of ageing around the lip area are minimised, as skin function is optimised.
It can also be used on other areas such as the nostrils and corners of the eyes which can also suffer dehydration.
Salon System Beauty Boost Hydration+ Lip Mask and Beauty Boost Hydration+ Eye Mask are multi-tasking masks that are quick and easy to use.
Each mask is made from natural Plant Cellulose to adhere closely to the contours of the face, just like a second skin, allowing for optimum absorption of the active ingredients.
They target fine lines, wrinkles and hydration with three active ingredients of collagen, retinol and Hyaluronic acid.
Apply the masks for at least 10 minutes, after which skin benefits from immediate hydration, and is glowing with a brighter appearance.
Beauty BLVD, the company behind Glitter Lips, have launched Divine Hydra-Gel Lip (pictured) and Divine Hydra-Gel Eye Masks, ideal for caring for skin during the winter months.
Loaded with nourishing and moisturising ingredients, the masks' formulations include Green Tea Extract, Res Seaweed Plant and Collagen compound.
Lips are left looking revitalised, smooth and radiant, whilst on the eye area, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines is reduced.